Soldiers are dying in Kashmir, and foodies are talking of pulao

 thehindu.com  10/12/2019 11:16:37 

I like my food as much as any other non-malnourished, non-starving Indian (no, not all of them are NRIs; a few still live in India). But Im no foodie. By foodie, I mean anyone who, in any social setting, be it lunch, dinner, coffee, or even a boat ride on the Seine under moonlight, will only talk about food.

They typically begin by talking about the restaurant menu, move on to publicising their private dilemmas about what to order, weighing the merits and demerits of every appetiser, main course and side dish, and then, long after the meal has been consumed, dessert polished off and bill paid, youll still find them talking about some random stuff, such as asafoetida.

Or couscous. How the worlds best couscous salad is to be had only at this floating restaurant in Casablanca and not at the sinking one in Sinkiang. Or how, if youve never tried Quebecois ice wine with the couscous salad de la seruppu, you deserve to be beaten with your own seruppu, etc.

If you ask them to stop, theyll tell you how its important to appreciate the enormous diversity of global cuisines. But if I want to learn, say, about the national dish of Burkina Faso, Ill either visit Burkina Faso or google the national dish of Burkina Faso. Why do I have to hear about it from someone who went to Burkina Faso on a junket?

Foodie assault

I am a strong believer in the philosophy that food should be eaten and not talked about  except for beef, of course, where its the other way round. When I sit down to eat my roti-sabzi or curd rice, I dont want to hear about how to make bergamot parfait with portobello mushroom or how to combine bok choy with bouillabaisse.

But with foodies mushrooming (sorry) all over the place, thanks to Western influences such as Masterchef, I often end up getting mugged, figuratively speaking, by foodie fanatics.

But now I know how to put them in their place. Its a strategy inspired by our honourable ministers. Have you noticed how, every time you want to ask them about jobs or the economy, they shift the conversation to Pakistan-sponsored terrorists killing Indian soldiers? Same strategy.

Last week, for instance, I was at a dinner with a group of journalists-turned-nationalists. As the evening progressed, each one of them turned out to be a bigger foodie than the other. One of them, a Tamilian, began talking about her plans to quit her job and open a restaurant in Goa that will only serve those who come first.

Im sorry? I said. What about other customers who may come in second, third, fourth, or twenty-fourth? Or do you plan to have only one table in your restaurant?

Twelve heads around the table turned to glare at me. Then one of them said, She didnt say shell serve pehle, she said payale.

I was shocked. Endha payale? I said. This is getting worse! Is she going to be serving only boys, in which case it is gender discrimination, or is she going to be serving only boys, in which case it is cannibalism? Which one is it?

Anti-national dish

Finally, one of the waiters intervened. Sir, it is not pehle and its not payale, it is pai-eh-luh, a famous rice dish from Spain.

Why didnt you say you wanted to open a paella place in the first place? I said. Still, I must say its a very irresponsible and anti-national thing to do.

How do you mean? Ms. Paella said. Its just a dish. May be a little exotic in India, but people who appreciate good food will love it.

I shook my head sadly. There are millions of Indians who are malnourished. Millions more who are starving. And here we are, sitting in a high-end restaurant, and all we can talk about is a foreign dish like paella that not even 0.05% of Indians have heard of, and only 0.01% will ever get to taste.

My words, backed up by hard data, must have struck a chord, for one of the journalist-nationalists who had been quiet all evening piped up, I was thinking the same thing. Soldiers are dying in Kashmir, and you are talking about polio?

Its paella, said Ms. Paella.

Whatever, I said. If you really loved your country, you would be offering Indian dishes, not a Spanish one.

Thats right, someone said, and everyone else nodded in agreement. Why paella? Why not pakoda? Is a pakoda restaurant inferior to a paella restaurant?

Exactly, said another. India needs pakodas, not paellas. Clean trains, not bullet trains. Living trees, not tree stumps.

True, I said. The real tragedy is that no one cares about what India needs. This was the first time I had actually enjoyed a conversation about food.

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